Franz Hirtzberger ‘Setzberg’ Smaragd Riesling Wachau, Austria 2017
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Okay let's get serious. Franz Hirtzberger is making some serious Grüner Veltliner in the Wachau. He is a stonghold of the the region, with a level of focus, detail and obsession with his vines that is absolutely evident in every wine he produces. Indigenous yeasts, fermentation in tank and aging in large neutral barrel without lees stirring for purity of fruit.
The Smaragd classification does not play. Serious Grüner that kicks ass and does not take names. The Setzberg vineyard sits at super high altitudes and boasts a cooler climate than most of the lineup. Crisp, complex, acidic, focused.